Villa Bonnieux / Luberon guide / Luberon villages

Village by village

The most beautiful villages of the Luberon

Villa Bonnieux sits in the Golden Triangle, the heart of the Luberon’s perched villages, so most of them are less than half an hour away. Each has its own character, and several have starred on screen: here is our village-by-village guide, with market days, distances, the films shot there and what we love about each.

The perched village of Gordes in the Luberon

The villages at a glance

BonnieuxSeven minutes’ walk from the villaGolden Triangle. Market: Friday
Lacoste5 km · about 8 minGolden Triangle. The Marquis de Sade’s château
Ménerbes11 km · about 15 minGolden Triangle. Plus Beaux Villages de France. Market: Thursday, April to October
Gordes16 km · about 17 minGolden Triangle. Plus Beaux Villages de France. Market: Tuesday
Roussillon11 km · about 13 minPlus Beaux Villages de France. Market: Thursday
Lourmarin12 km · about 12 minPlus Beaux Villages de France. Market: Friday
Ansouis24 km · about 29 minPlus Beaux Villages de France. Market: Sunday
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue26 km · about 26 minMarkets: Sunday and Thursday
Fontaine-de-Vaucluse26 km · about 31 minThe source of the Sorgue
Cucuron22 km · about 27 minMarket: Tuesday

The Golden Triangle: le Triangle d’Or du Luberon

The French call it le Triangle d’Or, the Golden Triangle: the most sought-after corner of the Luberon. Gordes sits at its tip on the Monts de Vaucluse, and Bonnieux, Lacoste and Ménerbes run along its base on the slopes of the Petit Luberon, each perched on its own hill and looking across the valley at the others. It is the landscape of stone villages, vineyards, cherry orchards and lavender that people picture when they think of Provence.

Villa Bonnieux is right in the middle of it. From the terrace you look out across the triangle, and every one of these villages is within about a quarter of an hour of the house.

Which are “Plus Beaux Villages de France”?

The association Les Plus Beaux Villages de France lists seven villages in the Vaucluse, and five of them are in the Luberon: Gordes, Roussillon, Ménerbes, Lourmarin and Ansouis. The other two, Séguret and Venasque, are further north. The label is a good guide.

Bonnieux, our village

Bonnieux climbs the hillside in terraces, and the villa is a seven-minute walk from the centre. Take the steps up to the 12th-century upper church for the view over the valley to Mont Ventoux, then come down for a coffee and bread from Du Pain et des Miettes. The Friday market fills the streets, the Forêt des Cèdres is just above the village and the Roman Pont Julien just below.

On screen: Ridley Scott’s A Good Year (2006), with Russell Crowe and Marion Cotillard, was filmed at Château La Canorgue, the wine estate just outside the village. More in our Luberon guide.

The perched village of Bonnieux, seven minutes' walk from the villa

Lacoste

Facing Bonnieux across the valley, Lacoste is a quiet village of steep cobbled lanes and stone arches climbing to the château of the Marquis de Sade, bought by the fashion designer Pierre Cardin in the 1990s. The château opens from May to September and hosts the Festival de Lacoste in July.

An American connection: the Savannah College of Art and Design, SCAD, has its French campus in the village. There is no big market, but our Friday market in Bonnieux is only an eight-minute drive away.

Cobbled lane and stone arch in Lacoste, Luberon

Ménerbes

Ménerbes stretches along a narrow ridge above the vineyards, its pastel houses tucked below old stone towers. Walk up to the church and the square, stop at the Maison de la Truffe et du Vin, and look out for Maison Dora Maar, where Picasso’s muse lived. The corkscrew museum is just outside the village. Market on Thursday mornings from April to October.

On the page: this is the village of Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence, the 1989 bestseller that introduced the Luberon to the English-speaking world.

Pastel houses below the old towers of Ménerbes

Gordes

Gordes is the postcard: stone houses stacked up a cliff beneath a Renaissance château, and the tip of the Golden Triangle. The Château de Gordes holds exhibitions, and just outside the village the Village des Bories shows how farmers once built in dry stone. Sénanque Abbey is a few kilometres north. Market on Tuesday mornings. It is the busiest village in summer, so go early and have breakfast with the view.

On screen: scenes of A Good Year were also filmed in Gordes.

The perched village of Gordes in the Luberon

Roussillon

Roussillon is built on ochre, and its houses glow in every shade from yellow to deep red. The Sentier des Ocres winds through the old quarries and closes on days of high fire risk or storms; wear old shoes, as the ochre stains. At Ôkhra, a former ochre factory, guided tours explain how the pigment was made. Market on Thursday mornings.

On screen: the village appears in the French classics L’Été meurtrier (1983), with Isabelle Adjani, and the comedy Gazon maudit (1995).

Ochre-coloured street in Roussillon

Lourmarin

On the south side of the Luberon, reached through the wooded Combe de Lourmarin, this is the liveliest of the villages, with cafés spilling onto the squares under the plane trees. The Renaissance château is open almost all year, and the Nobel Prize-winning writer Albert Camus is buried in the village cemetery. The Friday market is one of the prettiest in Provence, with a producers’ evening market on Tuesdays in season.

On screen: the French hit series Le Cœur des hommes was filmed here.

Café terrace with parasols in Lourmarin

Ansouis

A small, peaceful village of honey-coloured stone wrapped around its hill, with a clock tower and a château that is still a family home. The owners show visitors round the Château d’Ansouis in season, by booking only. The Sunday morning market is held by the old washhouse. Ansouis pairs perfectly with Cucuron, a few minutes away.

On screen: Claude Berri filmed Jean de Florette and Manon des sources (1986), with Gérard Depardieu and Yves Montand, in and around Ansouis.

Clock tower at the end of a stone lane in Ansouis

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

A small town rather than a village, built on channels of the clear green Sorgue, with moss-covered water wheels turning in the streets and a richly decorated baroque church. It is best known for its antique dealers and its markets on Thursday and Sunday; on Sundays antiques and brocante line the water. See our antiques guide.

The clear Sorgue flowing through L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse

At the head of a narrow valley, the Sorgue rises from a pool at the foot of a sheer cliff: the largest spring in France, most spectacular in late winter and spring. Below it, restaurants line the emerald river under the plane trees. The Italian poet Petrarch lived here in the 14th century. On the short walk to the spring, stop at the Vallis Clausa paper mill, where paper is still made by hand. Go early in summer and combine it with L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.

Restaurants beside the emerald Sorgue at Fontaine-de-Vaucluse

Cucuron

The heart of Cucuron is the Bassin de l’Étang, a large pool framed by tall plane trees, with cafés along its edge. Climb to the Saint-Michel keep for the view. Market on Tuesday mornings, and an evening market on Thursdays in summer.

On screen: film crews love it. The candlelit dinner scene in A Good Year was filmed beside the pool, and Jean-Paul Rappeneau shot Le Hussard sur le toit (1995), with Juliette Binoche, in the village.

Plane trees around the Bassin de l’Étang in Cucuron

Tips for visiting the villages

Most perched villages are best early in the morning or in the golden hour before sunset, when the stone glows and the coaches have gone. In July and August, park at the edge and walk in, and expect Gordes and Roussillon to be busy around midday. Market days are the liveliest, but also the hardest for parking. The Luberon park keeps a list of market days, and our market guide sets out the week.

Village questions

Which Luberon villages are Plus Beaux Villages de France?

Five: Gordes, Roussillon, Ménerbes, Lourmarin and Ansouis. Séguret and Venasque, also in the Vaucluse, are further north.

Which village should we see first?

If you only have one morning, drive to Gordes early, then on to Roussillon for the ochre trail. Both are less than 20 minutes from Bonnieux.

Can you walk from Villa Bonnieux to a village?

Yes. Bonnieux is a seven-minute walk from the villa, with bakeries, cafés, restaurants and the Friday market.

Which villages are quietest in summer?

Ansouis, Cucuron and Lacoste stay relaxed even in August. Gordes and Roussillon are the busiest, so visit them early or late in the day.

How many villages can you see in a day?

Two or three is plenty. Pair neighbours such as Gordes and Roussillon, Lourmarin with Ansouis and Cucuron, or Bonnieux, Lacoste and Ménerbes, and leave time for lunch and the pool.

Distances and driving times from Bonnieux are approximate. Opening seasons, days and hours for every place mentioned should be verified directly before you go.

More from our Luberon guide

Luberon guide: things to do in Bonnieux and the Luberon →

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